Blue Shadow - Build log

Model Shipways supplies walnut strip planking veneer in various widths. Good quality in my past experience.Thumbsup
 
I have a shipment on its way from my 'go-to' supplier, Cornwall Model Boats, along with OcCre Erebus kit. Free delivery & discount - can't be bad! I used to buy model railroad items from the US, but since everything tightened up this end & USPS virtually doubled their rates, plus the services over here add 'rip-off' fees, I no longer buy from across the pond. On occasion, Amazon is an exception, but rarely. I have found a UK supplier of very good 0.6 mm veneer, at fair prices, that is ideal for decks - easily cut to width.
 
Thanks! Sorry for late response. Traveling to see family. The Ballad I used copper wire, flattened, blued and formed into straps. And used linseed on the whole assy. I think most of the model will get a coat of linseed? Not sure…
 
Whatever works. I've never used linseed oil on models.( Boiled Or raw?) Keep us apprised on the results and what you think.
 
I used boiled linseed oil. I don't know that I have ever used raw linseed oil.....I don't know the difference. The boiled linseed oil seems to bring out the natural wood tone and protects it to some degree. That's my experience. I guess I just like the effect. My building experience is fairly crude and I'm just a novice.
 
Raw Linseed oil is rarely used. A trip to Williamsburg years ago ,and a visit to the carriage maker, revealed that raw linseed oil is patiently applied to wood surfaces, to be used and kept out doors, in many coats until it is thoroughly absorbed and cured, rendering the wood virtually water and rot proof before painting. Since the cure time is interminably slow, this process takes weeks. "Boiling" the linseed oil prior to application greatly accelerates the cure time from interminable, to merely slow as snake $h!+. But makes it less weather proof as a trade off. Raw is pretty rare and not as readily available as boiled. A dot of boiled linseed oil on a French polishing rubber ( or pad) keeps the finish ( shellac ) from sticking and making a flaw in the finish between coats, since the finish is literally polished on by gently passing the judiciously shellac soaked rubber back and forth across the surface being finished, moving smoothly and rapidly. When to stop and leave it to dry between coats is a matter of feel and the experience of screwing up, going too long before stopping and allowing an application to start drying before applying more. The dot of linseed oil lubricates the rubber and helps keep it from getting stuck.Sleep

Pete
 
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Good info! I remember a documentary on expensive pianos, Steinway? And they worked the surface with a pad and chemicals to bring to a high luster finish. Your info sounds similar if not same. I want realist look/scale but protect the wood to some extent. Hoping for many happy accidents Be well
 
Additional progress continues. I managed to complete the poop deck railing, little cleaning up left to do.
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Next photo shows how I use magnets to hold wood while bending. I just wet thoroughly and leave till dry. Steel ruler is required with the magnets. Its for quick bends when I don't want to heat up the iron or other method.
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I got tired of digging through my Dremel tool bit drawer and came up with a solution to add space to my cordless Dremel base. Just a piece of scrap wood, quick mounting holes and a touch of super glue. All my most utilized bits are now mounted on the Dremel stand base.
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Maybe folks have great shop ideas that save time and effort. If so, please share.
 
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