Thanks for the suggestions. I am still a little confused. The transom has a 5mm offset as it tails towards the keel. Do you mean that this should be removed? Part of the confusion on my part may be about part # 28( below deck reinforcement). If that is removed between transom and last two frames, there will be a small gap between 1st plank and edge of deck (under deck). As far as I can tell the bulwarks(you refer to them as ply?) are sitting on the protruding edge of P/N 28 (below deck reinforcement) Did I misread the build plan?. I have attached some pics that may clarify my confusion. Hope I have not over thought this issue
Have a look at page 1 of my build. The rear has no lip, it is a smooth transition.
The supports sit directly under the deck flush to the edging ( you have to sand then to fit), not where you have them.
Look at photos DSC03060.jpg ,DSC03065.jpg,DSC03066.jpg ,DSC03074.jpg. The planking just follows directly underneath the balwalks.
If you look at DSC03090.jpg,91,94 it looks a little like yours but that's because the outer planing coves the thickness of the balwalk and there are no planks below.
The balwalks should curve hard against the rear bulkhead.
re check. There is no supports under the balwalks at the rear.
I will do so. I have to admit that I have been inundated over the years with many negative comments about most plank-on-bulkhead kits, but I love them! I am thoroughly enjoying watching your model come along, and love reading about how others overcome problems. I have concluded that these models are as good as the builder. You are doing a fantastic job!
Thanks Paul for your patience.
I finally understand your input and will start working on corrections. My brain just would not accept that Occre would leave a transom frame that would require that much re shaping (and not mention it in the instructions). I had big issues with BENJAMIN LATHAMs stern and eventually just built my way so I guess I should not be surprised. Is this small "gotcha" common in these type of kits? Thank goodness I followed your build.
All kits and manufacturers have learning humps and areas that need improving in relation to instructions. All the Newer kits tend to have far better doco, but still miss the plot sometimes. Some assume you have built before ( intermediate - advanced kits) and know how to do things. I've yet to find a kit that details planking...
The Chinese kits pre cut the planks to shape/ The others you have to. Some double plank, some single.
This is what build log forums are all about. We all learn and love to share. Were not machines, we all do things differently.
Good Day to All
I continue my build at a much slower pace due in part to holiday(Thanksgiving) but mostly because I am taking so long to shape each hull plank. Basically hand sanding each plank to indicated widths. I have tried marking and cutting with blade but find it tedious and dangerous.
You may note from pics that I finally grasped the kits intent and reshaped the stern frame while removing the previously attached lining from the back side of stern frame. I will continue hull planking half way to keel then attach garboard plank. I have scored a small rabbit along the keel to facilitate this plank.
I have been complaining to myself about how long I was taking to sand down each plank. Finally woke up and put my mini plane to work. Only takes a minute or two to shape each plank and gives a much more uniform surface.
Hello and a Happy New Year
Lest any followers think I have snoozed off during the holidays, here is my progress on the planking. On the starboard side I planked half way up from gunnel, installed the garboard plank and worked my way down to the middle. Not sure this was such a good idea. I had to use two correction planks and three or four half stealer planks. Not a big deal, but I though that all my careful measuring and sizing of planks would prevent this issue. Not so. Since I started planking, I have read that it is not a good idea to reduce any plank by more than 50%. Also I am working my way from gunnel to garboard plank on port. We will see what we will see :? I hope I am not over posting on planking. I seem to notice that few logs show planking progress. Any critique appreciated.
Finally back after battle with flu.
Applying second hull lining with sapelli planks. I am somewhat less than expert with contact glue, but have worked out method to keep most on the wood and not on me. A thin layer on hull and likewise on plank, a short wait(seconds) and then apply plank. Glue has strong grip requiring correct placement on first try. Difficult to scoot around. I found that applying adhesive to plank "only" allows more latitude in placement, but does not adhere as quickly. As I move to port side hope to improve skill.
It has been a while since my last update. Starting to make progress and spending real time on the build. It is too hot for outside activity(99.5 deg F on my patio). I really like this kit and have only a few irritations. Primarily assembling the various gratings and forming to odd shapes. There must be an easier way. I did discover a better adhesive. It is Titebond Translucent Wood Glue. It sets fast which is useful when mounting on vertical surfaces and any missed glue lines disappear. As you can see I did a really terrible job on bow gratings. I tried making templates of grating from drawing, but due to another screw up, I did not get the bow spirit installed proportionately. Oh well it is still a fun build. Thanks to Brian077 for suggestion about pre building one cannon to check port height. I had to open a few ports. Also as referenced in other build the girder size called out in inst. is wrong. I measured height of each one and still had to grind down a few for cap rail fit.
Yep the cannons are a pain. I had the one sunder the back floor that were out. Had to prop then slightly. The rest should be easy. I used a side cutter, No 11 & sander to cut & shape the gratings. Paint the gratings with some diluted PVA to bond them before you cut and they do not spit as much. I also made paper templates for each hole and used that as a guide to cut.