Definietly copper sheating was not invented in this time!
HMS Alarm in 1761 got the first sheating - so historical a coppered hull on your model would be not correct.
Than there is the so called "white stuff" and the "black stuff" as prevention against shipworm etc.
Even older than the sheathing methods were the various graving and paying techniques. There were three main substances used: White stuff, which was a mixture of whale oil, rosin and brimstone; Black stuff, a mixture of tar and pitch; and Brown stuff, which was simply brimstone added to Black stuff. It was common practice to coat the hull with the selected substance, then cover that with a thin outer layer of wooden planking.
The waterline is usually the line marked by the water level, if the ship is laying in water fully loaded -> definitely on both sides !!
The black stuff should be than slightly higher than the waterline, because of waves and the inclination of the ship during sailing in the wind.......I am not sure, maybe 0,3 to 0,5 meter.....
The waterline, which is the basis for this should be marked in the drawings, usually in every complete drawing it is marked and shown
Due to the fact, that I made today one post about the SS Great Britain in the "Today in History"-Topic .....
The exhibition of the SS Great Britain is a very good example to make the waterline and the hight of a corrosion protection of a hull visible
The ship is much more modern, than yours, but the principles are the same
The ship is in a drydock moored and the waterline, better her the level of the water the ship would swim is shown with a roof of glass, so visitors get an impression how the ship would look like, when it is in water, but can also visit the underwater area, looking the screw, rudder, the sheating etc.
Hi Pat, I have been reading and enjoying your build, you are doing a good job with it. The planks would be visable, the Blackstuff was painted on. On a model it is useful because it hids any blemishes like glue marks but you can still see the planking.
Ik had a lot of problems with the hull. The man in bought this kit from had done the first layer of planking. With limewood. But he had bent the wood so much that when i wanted to glue a piece of wood on it and pushed a little nail in it it broke even with little bit pushing. Also the cannon ports are sometimes 5 mm off . Het glued in the first deck without placing cannons. Now i have to work upwards deck by deck with the planking because the ports are to low. Its a good learning school but i never buy a kit that some one else started. It was cheap but this is sometimes anoying.
Gave the hull some walnot varnish and i think i keep it this way .in give it a little sanding once more to make it all smooth. Happy that i have put ropes around the cannons because as you can see they fell into the ship. Now going to build up the planking deck by deck so that the cannons fit in the ports. The photos are taken with telephone so not to clear but saving for camera although in never make private pictures. Thanks for looking.
Problem... the whole back of the ship is 3 cm to high. The man who built it with the first planking had made a plan for himself so it was easyer with planking. Think i have to make every space between the figurines and windows each a little bit bigger or make a plank between spaces to fill it up. Dont want to take 3 cm of the top of the Stern.