Tender AVOS` 1806 - Master Korabel - 1/72

Uwek

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#21
Very interesting way of the hull construction. With the use of the higher number of frames, only one planking is necessary and the form of the hull is comming out very good.
Many thanks also for the additional explanation of the research for this model....very interesting
 

sjösjuk

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#22
I see something has happened after I posted... And hopefully it all worked out for the better... :)
As my post was deleted I guess I broke some rule...
 

janos

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#24
I have seen another Russian kit here as it was proposed to be sold in Australia but without success. Nice CNC work, exceptional details. The only problem which we really did not like - as mentioned in this thread before - was the shape of the planks. They were very nicely designed and covered the hull spotlessly but surely had been designed by someone who did not see a real ship in his life yet. Not only the direction of the grain as mentioned before but first of all the shapes - complicated, sophisticated boomerang-like shapes which had nothing to do with the real square, parallel shapes. This sort of planking is definitely good and even desirable for a fully painted hull - ie for models of modern steel ships - but definitely unacceptable for a historic one. I can see the purpose of the design and I can appreciate the effort but the result is just not good enough for a historic ship.
Janos
 
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#25
Interesting fact!
Everybody read "Moby-Dick, or The Whale", 1851 by Herman Melville?
The fact is that the writer was a relative of D. Wolf and took as a basis for his book one of the family stories,
that happened to John D. Wolf on board our tender "Avos"

Авось и кит-первое описание в литературе.JPG
 
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#26
I have seen another Russian kit here as it was proposed to be sold in Australia but without success. ...
Hi Janos!


Yes, I heard that our colleague from Russia came to Australia and showed local modelers kits from "MasterKorabel"
And I heard a similar reaction.
Ten years ago in Russia, when the MasterKorabe`s kits appeared there was the same reaction as yours.
But over time, the modelers liked it.
As they say, it's a matter of habit.

Janos, you are wrong here in a certain sense.
Yes, if you split a selected planking belt into separate boards, these boards will be not very narrowed and curved, if looked at from afar. But some curve WILL be present on some boards anyway. But if you take a selected belt as a whole, it usually will have a “boomerang-like shape” as you called it (usually it is called crescent-shaped). Here is a sample cut of board planking on the archive drawing of that age:
Woolwich (1785).jpg
чертеж.JPG
So, the board planking, if you rip them off the real ship of that age and spread out on a plane, will mostly have exactly the crescent shape.

When you build a wooden ship model – a historic one, not some child toy – you can go the following ways:

  • You can mark out the boarding belts on the ship frames and constrict and bend each board of the planking. This is the way the professionals go. BUT, first you should know how to do it in the correct way and second it is a very painstaking and difficult work.
  • You can laser cut the planking belts (each belt has its own place!), glue them to the hull and then cut the board joints with a knife. In order to simplify the placing of the belts, the kit developers cut them as a whole, without splitting the belts into separate boards. From one side, an obvious disadvantage is present (as it was mentioned): in areas of belt folding, the direction of wood fibers goes in a wrong way. But that disadvantage is compensated by simplicity of planking placing and by selecting the wood type with maximally weakly exuding structure. If desired, the belt can be split into separate boards and these board can be placed on the plate almost along the fibers, but the simplicity of placing them goes away in that case. Since it is a kit, the developers make emphasis on the simplicity of assembly. As a BIG plus, the beginners, when they will start a kit of another producer, will already know how the place the planking in the CORRECT way.
  • You can just not bother with the correct planking and do as does a vast majority of companies: give a bundle of wooden planks and (in some cases) an instruction with the WRONG placing scheme. Here is for example what some people get, when they follow the manufacturer instruction:
  • i7T9VVT0T.jpg

And here is how it should have been done (the model from the museum):

3b7c6eca-7a50-438a-a361-d2d16c1ecb84.jpg

So please believe, the developers have seen the real wooden ships (well, at least the museum models built in the corresponding ages) and tried to make their kits as close to the real ships as possible.

Janos, thank you for appreciating
I suggest you still try to assemble any kit from "MasterKorabel", to be sure yourself, and not only visually on the forum.
I would advise this new kit tender "AVOS".
Today he is the best product line of this company.
I will be very interested to hear your opinion after this!
Good luck!
 

janos

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#27
'Greenstone',
I think I already gave my answers to your comments before so there is no need to repeat them. I appreciate your approach to building a ship model's hull, which is equivalent to assembling a plastic kit. I just wanted to highlight that this approach, which can obviously be appeasing for beginners and not-so-serious ship modellers, is not in line with the expectations with those who want to build a life-like model.
Otherwise I appreciate the accuracy and the details of your kits, which, as far as it can be estimated from the photos, are at least in par with the newly developed Chinese kits, so well 10+ years ahead of the current European and American models. And if the quality of the gun barrels are as good as we can see from some Russian modellers (I think about the Bronze castings) than there is no competition on this field at all.
Janos
 
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JZDPredi

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#28
Personally,I do not have any problem with these type of planks,as a newbie I really appreciate them,cause it is really easy and handy to work with them.There is no manufacturer in the world,who will do the hull planks as real as they have to be,cause it is one of the hardest things on the model and it is really time consuming process.Take my as an example.I hate to do hull planking,it is really not an easy job.At least Master Korabl tries to simulate the curvature of the hull,at the end You still have the option to do it yourself and modify the kit
 
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#31
I have to say, that the deck fittings, the rigging elements like the rings for the sail etc. are realy realy good.
Looks like a real high quality.......the main question now off course is: is it the quality of the kit or the quality of the builder? I guess both......
 
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#33
To be honest, this is it the quality of the kit.
From the modeler only the accuracy is required.
So when I understand you correctly....it is for the most parts "out of the box"......than I have to say, that it is real good kit.
Maybe at the end after the model is finished, you can also show the parts of the kit unbuilt, so that we could see here also the kit content.......
 

GaryM

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#34
For me, the better the quality of the kit, the more I desire to make it a master piece. Without a professional shop and a lot of expensive tools and special talents in metal working, carving, etc, you are limited in what you can do with a kit to make it look like a master piece.