Steam Launch Borkum by neptune - Krick - 1/12 scale - with steam engine built from Stuart Turner cas [COMPLETED BUILD]

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The rear bulkhead including the servo tray and supports glued and clamped in place on the underneath of the deck.
when this has dried then the whole assembly will be glued into the hull.


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There is just a small ledge running around the hull for the deck to be epoxied to, so I decided to add some extra support in the way of some small wood tabs,
in the mid ship area I used longer ones where the sides were straight and smaller ones around the curved section so as to make sure I did'nt distort the hull shape.




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I cut a small section of wood to sit on the ledge and super glued the wood tabs under it, this made sure the tabs would be level with the ledge.
Port side done, now for the Starboard side.


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This is my Chopper, its a beautiful little Jig for chopping wood to size.


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The instructions say to epoxie the whole deck to the hull in one piece, but I decided to cut it in half and do one section at at time, it was much easier,
this is the rear section glued and clamped in place.


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The forward section glued in place, I had to use tape to hold it as there were no way to use clamps.


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View along the hull showing both sections in place, all I have to do to-morrow is glue a bridging piece under the join of the two sections.



Thank you for visiting my build,

Best Regards John
 
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Reinforcing the underneath of the lower deck that the Boiler and steam engine sit on.


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Lower deck in place.


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Cockpit deck attached.


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View of both decks attached, the two small hatches are for installing the ballast later on, and the large one at the stern is for access to the steering servo.


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When installing the wash boards around the sides of the deck both of them snapped off right up at the bow where they sat on the fore deck, so I installed these two short pieces first.


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Both pieces in place.


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These next two photo's show the remainder of the wash boards being fitted.


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Stern view.
 
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The prop assembly in place.


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marking out for the position of the central plank.


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Checking for fit.


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This is a photo of a Japanese style painting on bamboo, I picked up several of these quite cheaply from a Salvo's charity shop, the bamboo is quite thin and pulls through my draw plate nicely and makes nice dowells.


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Shows the bamboo when seperated.


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This is a table mat made of the same stuff, saves having to split bamboo from a larger piece.


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central plank glued and dowelled in place.


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The first few planks I attached this way, but then changed my mind and went with the way they showed them on the plans, see next pic.


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The way they show them on the plans.


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and on the model


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Planking the after deck. I did'nt use the wood supplied in the kit, they were only .5mm thick so I cut the planks from Pine wood at 2mm thickness, the fourth pic shows the kit wood.


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Over all view of the planking.



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Planking the Boiler deck.


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Planks as supplied.


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These last three pics show the planking after being cleaned up, the lower deck has not yet been cleaned up.


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this is the hatch on the cockpit deck that is used for adding ballast, this model is meant for a steam engine and as such it would have no large batteries to run it except for the small receiver battery that would go under one of the seats, however since I am going to run it on batteries with a mock boiler and steam engine I had realised I would have to make this hatch larger so as to get the batteries under the deck, the next three pics show the larger hatch during construction.



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General view along the deck


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In clamps



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Finished hatch way


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with hatch fitted


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all decks sanded, I also decided to cut away the deck behind the seating on each side in case I needed more space for the speed controller etc.



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The Port side seat temporarily in place.


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Just have to make a couple of cradles to support the two batteries that will go in the hold, I had to get two Six volt ones, the twelve volt were to big, but with the two six volt they should evenly distribute the weight on both sides.


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To continue, I started by marking out the decks for the dowells, on the side decks the dowells were put in as the planking was done as they were actually holding the planks to the curve, but on the other decks where the planks where laid straight I glued the planks on and then when dry I drilled and fitted the dowells.



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The bow deck, I marked the lines lightly with pencil, then using a dental tool I just made a small indent where each dowell would go so that when I drilled the holes the drill would not wander


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On the two lower decks the planks where wider so I marked for two dowells offset from each other.


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The decking after dowelling and one coat of clear varnish, also shows the start of the internal planking, the kit says to just run pieces of timber down the hull over the ABS spaced to look like ribs, but I had all their deck planking left over so I thought it would look nice to do diagonal planking instead.


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Port side finished


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close up, needs a bit of filler and a good rub down.
 
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Building in the seats, for the most part everthing went to-gether OK with just a bit of adjusting,
using the two squares to keep everthing square and also a piece of notched wood to help.



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The port side seat in place and glued with reinforcing strip wood.



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These next two pics show the laser cut ply that is supposed to be used for the aft end washboards ( coamings ), I thought it strange that they should have the coamings completly round the deck to keep the water out of the boat and then have an opening where the ladder is, I know from experience at the pond that water would get in, so I decided to make a one piece coaming out of some of the scrap ply left over from the kit.


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Front view



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These next three pics show what I did.



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Just about finished the interior planking and the trims and also have started staining the coamings and the benches etc.
I also have finished the framing for the rear hatch, and also lined the inside of the bulwarks.


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Full view along the launch.


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The access steps are finished but not yet glued in place.



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I covered the deck hatch framing with some clear plastic wrap so the hatch cover frame wouldn't
stick to it, while I was cutting and gluing it together,
then I clamped the front and rear timbers to the deck hatch frame with a couple of 1mm spacers so as to allow a little bit of slack so the cover when finished would slip nicely in place and not be too tight.




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shows the capping on the port side just about finished and just going around the stern, the wood included in the kit for this was 1.5mm X 1.5mm, they wanted you to use 5 pieces of it, one either side of the bulwark level with the top and then 3 pieces across the top to form the capping, but what I ended cutting was two pieces 4mm deep to go either side level with the top then for the capping I used some veneer, see following pics.



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shows the veneer on the starboard side and also a piece of the veneer that I used laid across the ship.

The inside of the bulwark capping has been trimmed.



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The next three pics show the finished capping.


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Just catching up with all the trim pieces, around the coammings and the bench seats etc.


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I cut to size and glued the trim to the long pieces of coamings, but for the two small pieces up at the bow I cut the starboard one over size and glued it in place, then I measured and cut the port one to size, I then held it in place and put a sharp thin chisel against its end where it sat on top of the starboard one, then I gave the chisel a short sharp tap and it cut off the excess from the starboard side. See next two pics.


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Chisel held in place.

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After cutting,


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Overall view.


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View of cockpit area with trims in place.


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Starting to finish off the seating. Constructing the seating.


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Small seat with its back attached, the blue tape is to keep the varnish from the area where the finished seat will be glued to the base.


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Small seat in place.


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Shows two pieces of ply that have been shaped to form the padded seating.


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These next three pics show the large seat with padded seats being formed.


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two shaped


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all shaped



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Making and attaching the flag poles. These were not included and you have to supply your own.
View fore to aft.


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bow view


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stern view


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Close up of aft deck socket, I made sockets so as to be able to remove the flag posts when transporting the model.


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you have probably already guessed but this is what I used for the flag poles, I had the choice of wood or aluminium, so for strength I went for the aluminium Knitting Needles, they were just the right size, just had to file the number off the top and cut down to size. I bought four aluminium needles and two wooden ones, cost one dollar in the Salvo shop.


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For the sockets I used part of an old Radio Arial I had tucked away in my scrap box, I found the lower section was just the right fit for the poles, see next two pics.



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You are showing us here a very clean and very accurate work.....wow, great work!
and a good hint with the antenna of the radio......exactly these uses are our arguments towards our wifes, that we do not want to bring it to the garbage pin......"Maybe I can use it once, somehow, please do not throw it away"
 
Final assembly of the engine.

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Sole plate bolted to the box bed.



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Big end, con rod and bearings bolted in place.


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Next the standard is bolted on.



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Attaching the lower bolts to the cylinder



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Gasket in place.


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Piston attached with gasket waiting for the cylinder to be attached.







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Cylinder bolted in place



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cylinder lid bolted on.




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General view.




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Flywheel attached



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