I framed out the gun port openings in blood wood then planked the hull up to the gun deck ports. The hull below the wales is swiss pear, the wales are ebony and the planking above the wales is castello box wood. I spent way more time on the shot locker and well than I planned, but it's finally done. In the end, I opted for making the access door and shot locker lids of swiss pear, just like the framework of the well itself.
Your well and shot locker look great. Did those hinges come with your kit? I m going to try to make hinges as I not happy with the ones I have.
I think it was cannoe21 who had a nice presentation on hinges in his build log but I haven't found it yet.
The hinges didn't come with the kit, and neither did plans for or parts for the well and shot locker. I used "Blanford's" shot locker plans as a base and modified it to fit the size and scale I needed. The part was scratch built. The hinges are actually laser cut commercial wooden gunport lid hinges that measure 1/16" wide and 9/16"" long. If you trim off 1/16", you have a 2' hinge for a 1:48 scale gunport door. In 1:96 scale trim the hinges to 3/*" for a 3 scale foot passage door hinge. I used a Sharpie to color them black and CA glue to fix them in place.
I finished planking the outside of the hull. I added decorative molding that I made from swiss pear as the sheer strakes. The boarding ladder, channels and deadeyes will come later. I'll fit the cap rail after the inboard bulwarks are planked.
Thanks! I'm not sure about a mast. The kit provides plans and material for a fully rigged mast, but it takes up a lot of room and looks kind of top heavy. I may just go with a stub mast or build up to the mast top.
Your planking looks great, the colors work well together. If you run the mast up about four to six inches above the fighting platform it would give you a well-balanced model without getting too tall.
In getting prepared to lay the deck beams, I realized that bending the relatively thick stock was goin to be a problem. The kit says to "build up" the beams from 2 layers of stock held in shape by nails or pins. When the glue dries the deck beams should be good with the proper camber. How much can go wrong there?
So I asked my friend Mike Shanks if he could cut out the 15 deck beams I needed out of beech with his laser. Each beam is 4 mm wide and 3 mm thick. They turned out great! A little trimming and sanding and they fit perfectly. I'm going to start laying the beams and finishing up the hold. You can see the limber boards in the photo. I'm also planning a small section of decking in front of the shot locker where the two transverse mini-beams are in the photo. There are also 4 support pillars in the hold under the orlop deck.