Panart: San Felipe 1:75 Scale Build Log

Donnie

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I forgot to add one more jig to the bunch and this is how I added the extra layer to the port lids. Also following is "Yet Another Jig" that I created to help hold the cannon port lid while drilling holes and using the same jig to help hold it while I glue in the ring bolts and things. I am undecided about the brass nails if I should blacken them too. Even though it look nice, in reality, the brass nails do not exist, but rather would be black.

lid-jig08.jpg

lid-jig09.jpg

lid-jig10.jpg

lid-jig11.jpg

lid-jig12.jpg

lid-jig13.jpg

lids03.jpg
 

Donnie

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Even I do show some of the construction process. I thought I was show the assembly. Each lid is made up of 11 pieces. After each lid, I have to go back and cut the excess nail length off and touch up red paint and in some cases use a brush to touch up the blackening.

lid-assembly-01.jpg

lid-assembly-02.jpg

lid-assembly-03.jpg

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lid-assembly-05.jpg

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lid-assembly-08.jpg

lid-assembly-09.jpg

lid-assembly-10.jpg

lid-assembly-11.jpg

lid-assembly-12.jpg


 

zoly99sask

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They look good Donnie, I guess your hand is getting better.
 

Donnie

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Yes, a little bit. I can do about one or two and that is all.

Ok, I need a little feedback and some vote if you all do not mind. I do not know what position to put my lids in. I have a choice of #1, #2, or #3. Can anyone help ?

lid-sample-01.jpg

lid-sample-02.jpg

lid-sample-03.jpg
 

eric61

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Hi Donnie, #3, because that is apparently the correct position. When the gun is fired there is a certain amount of 'blowback' caused by air behind the ball that is forced backwards, powerful enough to totally destroy the lids if not tied back against the hull. When the ships were on show the lids would be in position #1.
Regards
Eric
 

Donnie

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Thanks Eric, Maarten, and Uwek. Interesting as I would not have guessed #3. I have seen the #3 rarely on some models and it is now kind of funny that I thought they were doing it wrong. Ha. Oh well. I am glad I asked. I had thought also about closing some lids near the bow and near stern, but I guess that would not make much sense.
 

Uwek

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:........... Interesting as I would not have guessed #3. I have seen the #3 rarely on some models and it is now kind of funny that I thought they were doing it Wrong...........
I guess these modelers want to show their hinges, but not thinking about how it would be in reality.......but I am not so 100% sure any more.
After some research in the web and in my books, I think it is somehow between 2 and 3.
Important I guess was also the height of the deck by itself and the possible geometry of the tackles for opening and closing the lids.
Take a look at this photo, which is an excerpt from Jean Boudriot´s book about the 74 gun ship
IMG_27741.jpg

If you take a look at this situation it will be clear, that it was important, on which height were
1) the hinge of the lid where is the turning and fixed point
2) in which height were the holes (do not know the correct term) where the tackle for the lid is going through the hull planking
and
3) in which height is in the different times (closed, half open and open lid) are the ring bolts for the lid-tackles.
In addition it was surely important, that at every situation and angle of the ship in wind, the listing, the lids could be closed only with leaving free the tackles.......
see herefore the wiki page under tactics:
https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Gun_port

some more photos out of Lavery, Goodwin and Boudriot / Delacroix 64 gun ship Le Fleuron
IMG_27721.jpg IMG_27731.jpg

IMG_27751.jpg

When you take a look at the HMS Victory´s lids they are shown now more or less horizontal, maybe because of the tackles......but we have to check the drawings of the Victory
poi_2-o-3.jpg

Maybe you have the possibility to check all these data on your vessel?
I saw also historical Navy board models, where the angle are different on the same deck level......maybe this could be because of the different geometry of the deck hights.......I am sure you can find some examples in my book reviews from Lavery and Gardiner (click on title)
The Sailing Frigate: A History in Ship Models
The Ship of the Line: A History in Ship Models
Wooden Warship Construction: A History in Ship Models
 

Donnie

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Thank you Undersea ! :) and Also Uwek for that great info. I find it very helpful !! :)

Well, onto my next invention ( but not really). It is a tool I design from my thoughts. I wanted two flats on a bar that the bar could be held in a vise securely. Then on the other end, I wanted a tip that measures as close to 1mm as I can. (actual measurement when finish was 1.06mm) I think that is close enough.
The tip also has a "shelf" of which the mini needle-nose pliers will "rest" on while the tool is turned to help create the Ring Bolts for Cannon Lids. I was using a plain piece of 1mm brass wire, but it could not continue its service as brass you know is soft. This tool is made out of carbon Steel which is fair.

The flats was made using a Milling machine with Bar standing vertical. Then onto the Lathe of final make of tip. It should be obvious that the "length" of the 1mm tip should not be too long as "flexture" will occur and actually will bend out of shape. So, no physics here, just some common sense. about 1:4 ratio
1mm diameter vs. 4mm length. (also like .5 mm diameter tip and 2 mm length).

The length of finish tip is exactly 3.92 x diameter of 1.06 mm I think that is close enough.



ring-bolt-jig-01.jpg

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ring-bolt-jig-03.jpg

ring-bolt-jig-04.jpg

ring-bolt-jig-05.jpg
 

Donnie

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BEWARE OF THIS STEP IF YOU ARE BUILDING THIS MODEL:
I am adding this info now as of May, 29 2018. The problem continues with the placement of the Cannon support balsa parts. Even with the supports lined up with the false deck, they are STILL not going to set correctly. EACH Cannon will have to be measured and fitted. What is the remedy ? I am not sure.
The Cannons will also have an ANGLE to them which also poses a problem. I do know that they LOWER supports are too far back, but this can not be accomplished at this time. Another method should be developed. This is very poor method if you want to have a ship that looks great. This method below is still not acceptable. The only other method would be to modify or add a "box" for each cannon like some other kits do. Then fit the box after the hull is completed. It would be necessary to file out extra square opening for such.



I have gone JIG crazy. Well, not quite. Early in this build, back when doing the cannon supports, I should have planned much farther ahead as NOW, the lower cannon supports (balsa blocks) as so far back into the hull, I am having to put extensions on the cannon lengths to make things work out. So, in order to hold things in place, I had to come up with this idea. Well, it is not so bad, as I am going to use this to ALIGN all the cannons like they should be instead of using calipers every time.

locating-jig.jpg
 

Donnie

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AGAIN ANOTHER PROBLEM: BEWARE OF THIS STEP IF YOU ARE BUILDING THIS MODEL:

It has been a while since I did an update. Various reasons. I finished the Port Side of the Cannons (Lids, Span Rigging, etc). Then onto the Starboard side to do the same.

I decided to stop at some point and review the step of installing the Channel. Much to my disbelief and frustration, I found that I am going to have to CUT all of the Spans (ropes from the lids to inboard tackle) that let the lids up and down. Not enough room to install the Channel. Well, I went right by the instructions and using the little jig of making sure that I was drilling the holes in the correct position.

However, yes, the holes are probably ok VIA the JIG, BUT, in relation of the JIG to the WALES is a whole other problem of which I was not prepared for. AGAIN, this is what I get for not STUDYING and READING and test fitting things before going on ahead. BUT, my gosh, how far does one have to read in advance ??? Can not trust the manual. The reason is that the IMAGES of the steps involved are NOT necessarily in Chronological order.

So, here are a few images of the best of what I can do so that no one else does the same mistake.

lid-ropes-08.jpg lid-ropes-09.jpg


 
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