Mantua Sovereign of the Seas 1:78 bashed to death kit from Janos

janos

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For a short time I am going to go for a different direction with my SoS, putting the guns aside for further consideration. So I started working on the boats. @ of the will be installed on the main deck, a Pinnacle and a Yawl. The biggest one, the Longboat will not be built as it was not stored on the deck but stowed and as I am not making a diorama there is no room for this biggest boat.
...edited...
Forgot to mention the obvious that these plugs are only that - plugs which represent the inside of the boats and, using clingwrap as a separation tool the clinker planking will be laid on them.
.....
In the mean time, as always, I entertain myself with a few carvings. These ones will be placed between the gunports of the main deck. Currently they are just cut around the contours with a fretsaw and attached to a temporary board for carving.
Janos DSC_0226.JPG DSC_0228.JPG
 
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Pat71

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Looks good. Do you carve the wood on the blue lines? Looks so fragile. I used to soft wood so at the end it was broken in 3 pieces. Have to start over again.
 

janos

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Pat,
Yes, they are small, the length of the biggest one being about 35 mm. The lines represent some inside contours to which I have to carve. The material is not soft wood, but hard, it is European Boxwood.
While carving I often break off some smaller sections. One way of trying to correct the problem is to cautiously glueing the broken off section back using Superglue gel. If it succeeds the joint is as strong as the wood itself. Sometimes I have to dowel the joint, using 0.5-0.6 mm diameter Boxwood dowels. Superglue is good stuff but can be applied once only. If it breaks another blob of the glue can not be applied again, it won't work. The surfaces have to be cleaned thoroughly, back up to the wood surface, removing any remnant glue from the previous attempt.
Janos
 

Pat71

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Tnx for Your time. I like practicing with carvings. Going to find some better wood. It smokes sometimes with harder wood in the milling machine. Is the rotation to fast or do i have to lett the tool in the milling to cool down.
 

janos

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Pat,
For carvings you have to experiment with European Boxwood, American Boxwood or Pear in this order. (Refer to Dave Stevens' -didit- beautifully written articles about this in another thread). Yes, wood burns easily, if the rpm is too high and/or the feed speed is too high and/or the millbit is not sharp enough. One needs to experiment with these things. It would not help trying to cool the bit down as it will re-heat very quickly, if the causes above are not solved.
Janos
 

zoly99sask

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Janos ,you don’t like guns do you? ;)

Carving is your genre what is simply amazing.
 

Uwek

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..... Sometimes I have to dowel the joint, using 0.5-0.6 mm diameter Boxwood dowels. ..
Janos
Hallo Janos,
you mentioned small diameter dowels in one of your last posts.
Are these dowels self produced, or can these also ordered finished by a supplier?
If you produce them by yourself, please be so kind to explain how you produce them - it is interesting also for treenails
 

janos

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Hi Uwe,
I am making my own dowels if and when needed. As I do not dowel hulls or decks I do not need them in big quantities. I haven't got a proper drawplate so if I need a new size I make it myself. I simply drill holes in iron plates and use these holes for making the dowels. The trick is NOT to countersink the hole. As the drill gets through the iron, it leaves a sharp edge on the exit side. This side will then be used as the entry side for the dowel the end of which has to be chamfered so it gets into the hole for the start. Usually a series of holes has to be drilled, in decreasing diameters.
I start with a square profile, made with the circular saw. The diameter of the first (largest) hole has to be somewhat less than the diagonal of the square profile, and the dowel will be drawn through the series of holes with decreasing diameters. The difference between the consecutive diameters differs on the type of wood used. This procedure is the same as with a proper drawplate which I unfortunately do not have.
Janos
 
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janos

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As I indicated I changed direction with the gun barrels. I left those poorly cast ones alone and started turning them from brass. For this purpose I made a duplicator on the Unimat 3 (something similar what Vanda-Lay are selling). I can give more info about it if someone is interested.
The barrels on the pictures are the first set for SoS, will have 14 of them. I attached the crown symbol to 3 of them, it is work in progress. The crowns are stamped of 0.05 mm brass.
There will be 3 more types of barrels as I do not install guns behind the (closed) gunport lids.
Janos DSC_0250.JPG DSC_0252.JPG DSC_0255.JPG DSC_0256.JPG
 

Peglegreg

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Amazing work on the turning of the barrels Janos.
They look so much the same as each other.
Well done mate.
Havagooday and happymodeling
Greg
 

epicdoom

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Very nice and some fine Lathe work on the cannons. I see you have it set up as a duplicator that's a great idea as apposed to eyeballing them and having to use dividers and calipers to constantly measure. I may have to add something like this to my lathe for making cannons will be a lot faster.
 

epicdoom

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I would imagine you could rig something up. I'm not familiar with that lathe I have a full size Atlas lathe and a small 8X12 hobby lathe from harbor freight should be fairly easy to rig something to work. shoot me a picture of the Proxxon Ill see if I can find a way to add a duplicator to it send it via PM so we don't muddy up this post.
 
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