Lenght hull planking

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What is the best way to do the hull with 2 layers of planking . Ik mean the right lengt of a plank. See a lot of very long pieces but i dont think the trees where that long to cover almost the lenight of the total ship
 
I did cut the second planking of my Santa Ana in plank with 6 cm. The problem is, that short planks can´t follow the silhouette from the ship. With a long plank you don´t have the problem. If you glue a lot of little planks you will get little triangles between the planks. It was the first time for me, and the error is now done. I think its maybe good to bend the long plank first, and than you can cut it in little pieces.

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I have seen hull planks 30 feet long

at 1:48 scale 8 and 9 inch planks would be the max length
 
With second planking smaller planks are easier. If you are going for a natural wood look, it enhances the look, but for painted it does not matter. 120cm is a good option. It makes the bending / shaping easier to handle at that size. If your going to use contact glue it much easier with small sections.
 
120 is verry long. Dont think wood is that long. I use most of time the glue that you can use to hang heavy objects to a wall without nails. It sticks almost imydialtly andere can move a round for about 5 minutes. Mixed with super glue it Takes 2 sec
 
At my Golden Hind in 1/90 I used 8cm planks.
For my Sovereign of the Seas in 1/78 I decided for 10cm long planks for the second planking
 
We have to be careful writing lengths of cm for models.
As I remember the real planks on ship hulls had an avarage length of 5 to 6m which means some 18 to 20 ft.
I agree with @didit that there are possibilities of 30 ft long planks (appr. 9 meter), but I guess these are not the standard.
Off course a little bit depending on the kind of tree they used in the different locations over the world.
I think these lengths are also mentioned in several publications like Mondfeld, Lavery etc.
So starting with 6m or 20 ft in real everybody can calculate the length of a plank on his specific model depending on the scale of the model.

At the final end, everybody should decide by himself, what looks correct at your model, too short planks could destroy the appearance of the hull, especially if the timber of the model planks has different colors and grain......
 
G'day all
I'm only going by the English build here with my answer. In the mid 18th century limber was very limited and the maximum length was 20 feet, this is what Uwe said. So to keep metric (this is our measurement down under), is about 6.1 meters, so
At 1:30 scale the length of the planks would be 204 mm long
At 1:48 scale the length of the planks would be 128 mm long
At 1:64 scale the length of the planks would be 96 mm long.
I believe mainland Europe tree were taller because England used the captured French's ships lumber to make their own ship. In some instances, and they used 24 feet of lumber from the captured ships.
An interesting thing that I have discovered that the length of deck planking on the late English ships were a mixed mach of sizes. I still used the standard 20 feet on all of my models though, to me it's more natural and cleaner looking.
Happymodeling
Greg
 
being an international forum there is a mixture of inches, mm, feet, cm etc

seems like we need an instant chart as a quick click to convert measurements

anyhow on this wreck I measured planks 32 feet long and as short as 26 inches that is why a simple answer is difficult. It depends on where the ship was built, who built it, when it was built and what happens to be available in the shipyard at the time the ship was being built.

the longer the planks the stiffer the hull will be, so a ship builder will use as long a plank as he can get. I have seen white oak trees where the first branches were 50 feet off the ground. I will say a 20 foot plank is average

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Is gonna Be aan slow progress in fear. Broke 2 ribbs again 2 hours ago. This time other side of the chest other side was Just painless after 3 weeks
 
HI Everyone, I for one do not like double plank kits main reasons working with veneers I can not get the corect shapes done and two I always have problems at the turn of the bilge the second layer will not lay corectly, does anyone know of a tutotorial for doing the second planking, I try to avoid these but it seems like more and more kits are going in this direction so I guess I need to learn how to do it. THANKS FOR ANY HELP Don
 
HI Everyone, I for one do not like double plank kits main reasons working with veneers I can not get the corect shapes done and two I always have problems at the turn of the bilge the second layer will not lay corectly, does anyone know of a tutotorial for doing the second planking, I try to avoid these but it seems like more and more kits are going in this direction so I guess I need to learn how to do it. THANKS FOR ANY HELP Don


G'day Don
I don't find putting the veneer second planking down hard. I use contact adhesive in small areas at a time.
If you use white glue/PVA, try to put some small amount of salt crystals over the glue to stop the veneer from moving. That's an old carpenter's trick that my grandfather taught me when I was a little boy.
Happymodeling
Greg
 
For laying down veneer with white or yellow glue, that glue is reactivated by heat. So brush on a coat of glue, let it dry, and when your planking veneer is where you want it, use an iron ( a model aircraft Monokote Iron is handier for model size work) to melt the glue and stick the veneer in place. I used to do this all the time when I was working on furniture.
 
For laying down veneer with white or yellow glue, that glue is reactivated by heat. So brush on a coat of glue, let it dry, and when your planking veneer is where you want it, use an iron ( a model aircraft Monokote Iron is handier for model size work) to melt the glue and stick the veneer in place. I used to do this all the time when I was working on furniture.

Thanks I'll try that. Very interesting
Havagooday
Greg
 
HI Everyone, I for one do not like double plank kits main reasons working with veneers I can not get the corect shapes done and two I always have problems at the turn of the bilge the second layer will not lay corectly, does anyone know of a tutotorial for doing the second planking, I try to avoid these but it seems like more and more kits are going in this direction so I guess I need to learn how to do it. THANKS FOR ANY HELP Don
Hi Don,

For the very thin veneer second layer I use CA glue. The issue with the thin veneer is you can schape it only over the length axis and not over the diagonal axis by means of bending steam and heating, just because it is to thin. My RC also had very thin veneer and for this I applied a semi thin CA glue to the hull and then glue it slowly in place and directly give it the shape you need. This can only be done with CA glue otherwise because you need instant adhesion. In this way it is possible to shape the veneer strips also around the diagonal axis.
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Hope it helps.
 
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