HMY Fubbs (1724)

Brian: great job on Fubbs. Hardly amateurish!
I think a thread on stoves is a great idea. I based my build of the Brodie stove on an article I saw on an HMS Fly website. I’ll be happy to post my build process.
 
The Great Cabin:
This set of photos shows the deck framing and the material for the parquet floor. I am using the same method Gene used in the practicum for the floor. Portia’s plans show the open framing on the port side and parquet flooring on the starboard side.
The woods used are cherry, purple heart, palm, rosewood and yellow heart.
This is my first attempt at this type of flooring, big hands and small parts is not a great combination to work with but by cutting all the parts oversize and sanding them to fit. I found magnets on a steel plate very helpful aligning the pieces before grabbing the glue bottle. I numbered all the square blocks and added the dividers prior to trimming them to fit the deck.IMG_4639.JPGIMG_4640.JPGIMG_4641.JPGIMG_4642.JPGIMG_4643.JPG
 
The Great Cabin continuation:
This set of photos shows the blocks be assembled into a sheet and trimmed to fit the deck. I used a 25-pound weight to glue the parquet to a sub floor made from 1/64” basswood and trimmed the assemble to fit.

IMG_4648.JPGIMG_4649.JPGIMG_4650.JPGIMG_4651.JPGIMG_4652.JPGIMG_4653.JPGIMG_4654.JPG
 
Thanks Dave,

I expect with practice and a lot of patience a guy can get proficient at this type of flooring.

Mike
 
Great work mike,

Did you saw these on a circle saw only? Or what was the total process to produce the same size of tiles?
 
Thanks Maarten,
I use pen blanks of the more expensive woods for small parts.
I rip strips slightly thicker (1/32”) than the finished floor, run the strips through a Byrnes thickness sander to remove saw marks, cut the square tiles to size on the table saw, use a Delta 1” belt sander with a fine grit belt to remove saw marks, glue the tiles together, trim to fit the floor space, glue floor to underlayment, trim underlayment remove excess glue, hand sand floor surface with 400 grit paper and install the floor. I expect things would go a lot faster with a CNC Milling Machine, but I don’t have one yet.
Mike
 
Hi Mike thx for the detailed explanation. Yes the small cnc machines become affordable now. For me this will be the first big step in the near future.
 
Hi Dave,
Thanks, I got the plans from Sea Watch Books several years ago, I don’t believe they sell plans any more just books.
Mike
 
Hallo @Mike41 ,at which Stage you prepare the notches in the beams?
Before you permanently install them, so dry fitting the complete structure of the deck, or after you installed them?
And what is your technique to cut out these notches?
Thanks in advance
 
Hi Uwe,
I clamped all the beams in place and marked the carling locations at each end of the hull, using a thin strip of wood the same width as the carling I marked the required notch location on each beam.
To simplify the framing for a beginner I made the carlings the same thickness as the beams. I removed the beams and rough cut the notches with a bandsaw, using a vice filed the notch the finished dimension using a carling to check the size of the notch.
The carlings are normally about half as thick as the beams and the notches would be cut in with a sharp chisel, I felt like this would be too time consuming for a beginner.
After the beams are notched they are installed with glue, when dry I cut the carlings to fit between the beams and have a beer.
Mike
 
The Great Cabin:
The Great Cabin has a frieze shown on the wall in the practicum and sense I am not much of a painter I decided to use a simple floral relief carving for decoration. I glued the pattern to a 1/16” thick piece of boxwood and used a Proxxon Mill to cut out the carving. I cleaned it up with hand files and sandpaper, glued it to white card stock and installed it as shown in the following photos.
IMG_4686.JPGIMG_4687.JPGIMG_4688.JPGIMG_4689.JPGIMG_4690.JPGIMG_4691.JPGIMG_4692.JPG
 
Back
Top