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Hi Mike,
I'm preparing to build the well and shot locker and I was curious about your photos on that part. Am I correct in assuming that you glued the well timbers all together and then cut them to size or have I been smoking crack?
 
Hi Mike,
Yes that’s the way I made the walls for the well and shot locker,it’s easer than stick building the unit and produces a more uniform appearance.
You are making good progress.
Mike
 
Hi Mike,
Thanks for your speedy response and your kind comments.I still have the upper deck clamps to install and much more sanding ,but should be back on the tools soon preparing my timbers.
 
Hi Mike41, HOPE YOU HAD A WONDERFULL CHRISTMAS, MAY OUR LORD AND SAVIOUR BLESS YOU AND YOUS,,,,,Question concerning PART 4 lower deck framing plan mine has the scale 1;48 instead of 1:32 but when I went to the 1:48 sheet it is much smaller, assume it was a TYPO, let me here,,,,also my materials are comming in this week and I have a question on the jig and building board, I was wondering if I could use dowels to make it easierr to rmove the top jig so as to work on knees, drilling the top of frames for bols etc,let me here Don
 
Hi Don,
You are right that was a TYPO, the sale is 1:32. You certainly can use dowels to support the top, if you do you will still need to use gusset plates at the base of the dowels to assure vertical alignment with the base.
I am looking forward to seeing your progress photos.
Mike
 
Thanks Mike, Materials have just come in, and I will start on the keel and one frame first then the building bord and jig have to use my son-in-law saws for this an I also have some questions on the keel and jig placements, but need to look at some logs first. THANKS FOR DOING THIS PROJECT, IT IS A LEARNING EXPERIENCE and a good one.Don
 
Ahoy Shipmates,
FYI The notches on LDB-2 for the port side Arm Beam are not shown on the plans so you will have to mark and cut them prior to in stalling the LDB's the starboard side lines up good. It's no big hold up just follow the plans.
 
Don, Sgtmik
Thanks for your input, fortunately the changes did not affect the drawings much. I made the revisions and sent the drawings to Donnie to process.

You will undoubtedly need to do some trimming on the knees to get a good fit, if you keep the knees square with the beams it will all come together without much trouble.

Mike
 
Hi Mike.
Thanks for your response. What about the arch in the Deck Beams? I recall Andy made a comment about that and you recommended that he use the index sheet as a template. I'm sorry I still don't quite understand do I heat them up with steam or hot water and bend them Like planks?
 
Hi Mike,
Sorry about the confusion, the drawing originally shows the beams in a top view, I added a side view to show the arc of the beams and we re-issued the drawing. If you download the drawing again you will see the difference. You need to use the side view for a pattern leaving the ends a little extra long, use the plan views for length, fit the beams in the proper locations then cut the notches in the ends for the deck clamps.

I guess that was not too clear on the original drawing. lol

Keep up the excellent work, you are doing a fine job.

Mike
 
Mike: Do you think it would be possible for you to superimpose the trim lines on the frame assembly drawings for frame 1 and 9? I'm talking about markings on the plans (both 1/32 and 1/48 scale) , like the markings for the deck clamps. It would make cutting the frames easier. Thanks!
 
Hi Dave,
I set my model back on the jig board and clamped it up right, then on frames 1 & 9 marked the elevation from the bottom of the false keel on both sides of frames 1 & 9. I then used a straight edge and connected the dots along all of the frames between my marks and cut them like Mike shows. I hope this helps.
 
Thanks, Mike. That makes sense. BTW, How tall is your keel? Did you add the 1/16" as the revised drawings called for? The plans where the cut line is shown still used the "shorter" keel assembly, so you have to measure from those plans from the false keel to the cut line and add 1/16" for the proper measurement on the model.
 
Guys:

Mike - I think you cut out your keel before the revision, so that measurement is the old one. It doesn't really matter too much because the only thing you probably had to do was bevel the notches on the build board.

Don: My false keel plus keel measures 11/16" tall at the aft end : 1/16" taller than Mike's. That is the result of the plan modification.
 
Hi Dave,
It was hard to tell the Lions from the Christians when that issue was going around so I made a command decision and went with what I had. At that point I had already rebuilt my keel 3 times and just went for it. Yes I did have to bevel my build board a bit. As Andy has said no one but me will be measuring anything.
 
Yeah Mike, I spoke with Mike41 and he told me he increased the keel height and lowered the build board supports height for the sole purpose of eliminating the beveling. If I had already made my building jig and keel, I'd have gone with what I had, also. I just need to remember to raise my cut lines by 1/16" measuring from the bottom of the false keel.
 
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