OK, before I start, first I know the ship is more correctly referred to as H.M.A.S. Bounty but I am using the name on the kit box. Second, it looks to me, after referencing John McKay's excellent book in the Anatomy of the Ship series, that the boat in this kit is really the 20' cutter and not the 23' launch. I think the Model Shipways Bounty's launch is a model of the boat that Capt. Bligh navigated to Timor after the mutiny. The launch in the McKay book was equipped with two masts whereas the cutter had a single mast as with the Artesania Latina kit. So, it is my opinion that the A.L. kit is the 20' cutter aka. Jolly Boat. Also the kit is just under 10" long stem to stern which scales to just over 20'. This may be ancient history to some of you but I have never seen this pointed out previously, here or elsewhere. Another detail I feel the need to mention is the number of frames in this kit. There are 8 frames in the kit vs. 16 in the drawings in the McKay book. If I were building this model as a museum piece I would most likely create the additional frames or better yet build it from scratch using the drawings in the McKay book. But I am not. So. I will build it using the kit parts and following the procedures outlined in the guide booklet.
I have noticed that other modelers have had a lot of difficulty planking the hull and some have given up at that point. I think their difficulty was caused by rushing through the early stages of construction and not getting the frames faired properly so that the planks will lie flat on the frame while following the curve of the hull. If anything the frames are probably wider than those on the actual boat and if sanded properly will provide a good surface for the planks to be glued or nailed to. The most important areas for this process are at the bow and the stern. I am making sure that frames 2, 3 and 4 as well as 7, 8 and 9 and the transom line up smoothly before attaching the first plank. The kit provides filler blocks at the bow, two ahead of the first frame (part 2) and two behind it. There are none at the stern but if I see the need I will add filler blocks there too, as long as they are not visible under the seat. My two main tools thus far are a flat sanding stick made from a wood paint stirrer and a large diameter round dowel both with 220 grit sandpaper glued to them. Here are the images of my progress so far.
I have noticed that other modelers have had a lot of difficulty planking the hull and some have given up at that point. I think their difficulty was caused by rushing through the early stages of construction and not getting the frames faired properly so that the planks will lie flat on the frame while following the curve of the hull. If anything the frames are probably wider than those on the actual boat and if sanded properly will provide a good surface for the planks to be glued or nailed to. The most important areas for this process are at the bow and the stern. I am making sure that frames 2, 3 and 4 as well as 7, 8 and 9 and the transom line up smoothly before attaching the first plank. The kit provides filler blocks at the bow, two ahead of the first frame (part 2) and two behind it. There are none at the stern but if I see the need I will add filler blocks there too, as long as they are not visible under the seat. My two main tools thus far are a flat sanding stick made from a wood paint stirrer and a large diameter round dowel both with 220 grit sandpaper glued to them. Here are the images of my progress so far.