Donnie has made things a bit tough for me. In the first photo you notice that the bow has been sanded to a sharp edge it should have remained square in order for the second photo's two pieces (that are glued together) to form a bow keel.
Now, I can plank to the edge and then sand square and the attach the false bow or dispense with the false bow and have a sharp(ish) bow.
Open to ideas, please.
Hi Donnie, I have actually given a lot of thought to giving the ship a sharp bow. Those sort of ships need to "cut" into the swells, a flat area of 5 - 8 inches would create a certain amount of drag.
Finally, when I turned the boat over, I saw a big gap .
I may cut the last five inches out and redo/reshape the last section.
It is now 8.00 pm and dinner is out of the way, time to relax, I shall go and watch some gratuitous violence on TV.
Hi Popeye, thanks for your comment and sorry I took so long acknowleging.
Some further progress, FIRSTwhat I am about to show and discuss here is absolutely no reflection on Donnie or his skills, it is a common mistake that I have done myself on two models already.
The picture at the top of this page illustrates the problem that I'm sure many modellers have created inadvertantly, shaping the stern not using a plank to test 435 angles when sanding the bulkheads, as I stated I have done it twice!
So, how can one fix this "problem" a lot of cut and paste, cutting small pieces of wood, shaping then pasting(glue). (664/669) shows how I fitted the planks onto the stern keel. I had originally mitred the ends to line up with the dark line down the centre of the keel but the glue did not hold (even using CA glue). They needed a greater surface to adhere to, hence the alternating pattern.
(665) They alternated to this stage, now because the way the bulkhead, middle of picture, actually second last bulkhead of ship, was shaped it caused the planks to sit a bit higher, consequently at the triangular gap the planks are 4mm higher than the keel, solution = a lot of cut and paste! (666/668)
(667) This is one of those Mmmmmm! moments when the strip one labouriously trimmed and shaped got broked while taking it out after a dry fit that was way too tight - TWICE! there is another one on the other side of the hull. I am sorely tempted to put a piece of masking tape underneath and the fill it in with wood filler.
Dear reader, this is what makes this such an annoyingly frustrating but so damningly enjoyable a hobby.
CNC stands for Computer Numeric Control, it is basically a computer controlled router. A design be it text, a drawing, photograph, bulkheads!, anything for that matter is turned into a set of co-ordinates (from a Zero reference), the computer instructs the the router to X, Y and Z.
X is the width of the table in inches or millimeters, Y is the length and Z is the (cutting) depth.
The following video will give you some idea https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=QkJ_4fJnj_U
Hi Geoff, I use Mach3 v1.8XX but I am looking to get a later version because I have an XBOx 360 usb controller to use as a 'pendant'. Version 1 is lacking the relevant config area.
I also use an old version of Aspire to create toolpaths and GCode.
I also have a Unimat mini Lathe that I want convert to cnc at some later stage.
Hi Geoff, NC Studio is a good program to use, I tried it out many years ago. Somewhere on the net you can get a free download version Grbl is used a lot with Rasberry Pi and Arduino which utilise USB, I prefer the printer port connection.
PS it turns out the Xbox controller is a wireless unit and I don't have a reciever for the PC, so I will hunt around the pawn brokers and second hand shops for one.